It has probably been a long time since you tasted a juicy tomato right out of a garden. This is why gardeners are eager to get tomato transplants in the ground soon for the earliest possible production. Home gardeners are not always successful in producing an abundance of this favorite vegetable for a variety of reasons and some (like the weather) are beyond our control. But an effort should be made to do those things that can improve success with this crop.
First, choose the best site available. This place should feature full sun all day, good surface and internal soil drainage and a fertile soil. Without full sun, a minimum of 6 hours of sun is needed. Convenience to a source of water is helpful during dry periods to maintain good production. A high level of soil fertility is needed for acceptable yields so if you don’t know how good your soil is, get it tested by a reliable lab like the LSU AgCenter operates. Usually test results are quickly available and will allow you to make any necessary adjustments by adding elements that are in short supply as well as altering the soil acidity (pH) to the ideal level (6.5) for tomatoes. Without a soil test, the next best approach is to use a fertilizer that has the proper balance for tomatoes. Fertilizers with a 1:2:2 or 1:3:3 ratio are generally the best choices and examples of these analyses would be 5-10-10, 6-12-12, 8-24-24, 7-21-21 or 10-20-20. Although 8-8-8, 12-12-12, 13-13-13 and such are far better than no fertilizer at all, they may cause the first and/or second cluster of blossoms to fall off without setting fruit. Side dressing with a high nitrogen fertilizer after the first green tomatoes are the size of a golf ball is a practice that will increase yields and may be repeated every three weeks afterward. Use two level tablespoons per plant mixed into the soil surface six inches out from the stem.
Planting on raised rows is a practice that assures good surface drainage. Black plastic mulches over the soil speeds warming of the soil which increases rate of plant growth and thus earlier production. This mulch also slows loss of soil moisture, prevents weed growth, keeps plants cleaner and prevents fungus-contaminated soil from splashing up on the plants.
Space holes one and a half to two feet apart, mix in the appropriate amount and kind of fertilizer and set plants to a depth that brings the soil up to near the lowest leaves. Wrap bottom of stem with aluminum foil from three inches above ground to two inches below ground to help curb cutworm damage. Lastly, pour about a half pint of a starter solution around base of plant to encourage quick establishment and rapid growth.
Knowing that we could still have a late freeze, you may not want to put but a few of your plants in the garden right now. It’s not difficult to protect a few, but expensive to replace several should a freeze occur.
Tomato plants now available may still be tender and succulent…not quite ready to be exposed to the harsh conditions of the garden. If so, they need to be toughened by gradually increasing light levels and not watering them too much for about a week.
When buying plants, choose sturdy plants with strong, short stems and of recommended cultivars or varieties. Call your local LSU AgCenter agents for variety information or you can also find it on the internet. You should also know that there are two types of tomatoes. The “determinate” type stops its vine growth with a cluster of flowers at a height of some four to six feet while an “indeterminate” type continues vine growth as long as environmental conditions remain favorable.
Supporting tomato vines offers many advantages and season-long pest control is necessary for maximum production.
Joe W. White is a retired Extension horticulturist with the LSU AgCenter. Email him at jo2bar@comcast.net.
