Transplanting Hot Pepper Plants | Pepper Joe's (2024)

FAQs

Transplanting Hot Pepper Plants | Pepper Joe's? ›

When transplanting to the garden, put 1 teaspoon of sulfur into the hole first. Handle the roots gingerly and place into hole about 1" above the established root line so that more of the plant is underground than when in pots. Peppers will grow additional roots from the stem that is now underground.

When the weather has settled and the threat of frost has passed, the peppers can be transplanted into the field or hoophouse or greenhouse. Bury them a bit deeper than the root ball to encourage additional root growth that will make them sturdier.

Transplanting. Once hardened and about 4-6" tall, pepper starts are ready for transplanting outside. It's best to wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F – though, they can deal with lower temperatures, if not prolonged.

One, where it is advised not to bury the stems at all as it can lead to stunting and stem rot. The other where the stem is buried one or more inches as a matter of course. Both these types of gardeners are growing peppers just fine.

Even perfect-looking pepper plants often just sit in the ground for two to three weeks before reestablishing vigorous growth. Robert Dufault at Clemson University in South Carolina has been trying to get pepper plants to give up the secrets of their transplant shock for nearly 20 years.

Pepper plants usually require a little extra care than many other types of plants when transplanting them to the garden. They are more sensitive to the transplanting shock. Hardening the plant enables it to withstand the planting shock.

Quick Guide to Growing Peppers

They grow well in raised beds, containers, and in-ground gardens. Plant them 18 to 24 inches apart in a sunny, well-drained spot. Pepper plants need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Mix compost or other organic matter into the soil when planting.

Using your trowel, dig a planting hole just deep enough to cover the root-ball of the plant. Space in-ground holes 18 inches apart for most peppers; some of the larger bells may need 24 inches.

Transplant outdoors after nighttime low temperatures are above 50°F. Dry soil, temperatures above 90°F, or night temperatures below 60°F or above 70°F, can weaken plant growth. Transplant in late afternoon or on a cloudy, calm day. Pepper flavor is best when the season has been warm and sunny.

If you are already thinking of extending the harvest into the cold season by growing them indoors, the ideal is to grow them in a pot. Make sure that the container you choose is large enough to allow for good development of the root system and that it can contain a sufficient reserve of water and nutrients.

How often do you water pepper transplants? ›

We recommend watering after the soil has dried somewhat. During the longest hottest days of summer, that may be every day. During cooler weather and during spring and fall you may only need to water them every 2-3 days. The best bet is to feel the top layer of soil to see if it's moist, if it is, wait before watering.

Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Into each planting hole, put two or three wooden matchsticks (for sulfur) and 1 teaspoon of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (too much nitrogen will reduce fruit set).

Begin fertilizing your pepper plants after they have been transplanted into their final growing location, usually about 2-3 weeks after planting. It's important to wait until the plants have established a strong root system and show signs of healthy growth before fertilizing.

Keep the plants well-watered. Protect them from strong winds. Plant on a cloudy day or in the evening if possible so plants can recover out of strong sun. Provide a little nutrient solution to the roots, especially one that is high in phosphorus.

Transplanting can be stressful for plants, but using hydrogen peroxide can help to reduce transplant shock.

Transplant shock is tough for trees, but not anything they can't bounce back from (as long as you catch it early and help them)! All you need to do is know the symptoms, recovery techniques and time it takes to repair trees.

When rooting peppers from cuttings, it's wise to take extra stems in case some don't root. Using a sharp knife or pruning shears, clip the stem at a 45-degree angle. Make the cut directly beneath one of the small nodes where the leaves emerge. The plant tissue in this area is more likely to generate roots.

This family of plants lives year round in warmer climates, making them ideal candidates for overwintering indoors. Overwintering not only gives the pepper plants a jump start for spring, but the plants may actually fruit better in their second year.