I have flowers on my pepper but no peppers! (2024)

FAQs

I have flowers on my pepper but no peppers!? ›

Sometimes peppers have flowers but they drop off, or they don't seem to be turning into peppers – it could be from a variety of reasons, such as lack of pollination, or extreme temperatures (super hot 90˚F+ temperatures often cause pepper plants can drop blooms).

If it's getting into the 90˚ F temperatures, your peppers may blossom but fruit may not appear if it's too hot for proper fertilization. Pollination is not occurring: Peppers can be pollinated by the wind, or by hand, or with the help of pollinators.

Optimize Growing Conditions for Pepper Fruiting

Successful pepper fruiting hinges on providing optimal growing conditions such as ample sunlight, plenty of water, and nutrient-rich soil. This starts at the very beginning, whether you plan on growing peppers from seed or transplanting pepper seedlings outdoors.

Interestingly, all bell peppers start out as white flowers before a little green pepper emerges. They stay green for most of their lives, ripening into their final color at the very end of their lifecycle.

Pinching Pepper Flowers

Rather than focusing all of its energy on growing fruit right away, removing the first few flower buds will redirect the young plant to continue to grow bigger in size first – so it can produce more peppers later in life!

Not Enough Sunlight

Pepper plants need plenty of sunlight to grow. It's that simple. Most pepper strains originated from areas with warmer climates, meaning they thrive off of lots of sunshine in order to fully develop. In fact, hot pepper plants generally require a minimum of 6-12 hours of direct sunlight daily.

The more sun, the more peppers. If peppers are shaded by other plants, they will be stunted. Don't overwater peppers, let the soil dry out between waterings, and make sure their soil is well-draining. Grow them in full sun - is they are in shade they won't produce as many peppers.

The three key nutrients you need for your pepper plants are nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium. Nitrogen is the most important element as it supports the regulation of photosynthesis, which then encourages foliage production and leafy growth.

Pepper plants respond well to a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 or 14-14-14. Liquid fertilizers with a similar N-P-K ratio can also be used, but make sure to dilute them according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Plant them 18 to 24 inches apart in a sunny, well-drained spot. Pepper plants need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Mix compost or other organic matter into the soil when planting. Water immediately after planting, then regularly throughout the season.

Should you pinch off the top of pepper plants? ›

Topping pepper plants involves strategically removing the uppermost growth tip of the plant, usually at the main stem's apex. This process encourages the plant to develop lateral branches and a bushier growth pattern.

Fruiting Stage (Weeks 10-14)

Shortly after a flower forms, it should begin forming a small bell pepper!

Expect 5-10 large bell peppers per well-grown plant, and 20-50 hot peppers per plant. Storage: Peppers don't stay fresh and crunchy for more than a few days, even in the refrigerator, so use them while they are in season. Small chiles can be dried if laid on cookie sheets in an airy place.

Peppers require consistently moist soil for optimal growth. The soil should be kept damp but not waterlogged to prevent root rot and other issues. A general rule of thumb is to water deeply once or twice a week, though this can vary based on weather conditions and soil type.

My rule for pinching off flowers is simple: pinch off all flower buds until 2 weeks after transplanting the peppers into its final growing location. The 2 week delay is to allow the plant to get over transplant shock and time for the roots to get established before expending energy into fruit production.

This may seem counterintuitive, but healthy roots will lead to higher yields through the course of the season. Finally, maintain good air circulation and manage disease by thinning lower leaves just like you do with tomatoes, a process often referred to as bottom pruning.

Fruiting Stage (Weeks 10-14)

Shortly after a flower forms, it should begin forming a small bell pepper!

Pepper flowers are self-fertile, and most flowers can set fruit without cross-pollination. Even so, peppers still produce both pollen and nectar. The style is generally longer than the surrounding stamens, and the stigma is usually receptive prior to the release of pollen.

Once pepper plants have begun sprouting flowers, you can try a flowering-stage fertilizer. These usually have less nitrogen, but provide plenty of phosphorus and potassium for fruit production. One great fertilizer we use for the blooming stage of growth is Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed (2-3-1).

During the transition outside, I recommend to prune early pepper flower buds off of the plant. Be sure to first allow the flowers to grow large enough so you don't damage the young leaves when picking. Another option is to only pick flowers that begin forming fruits, and leave the rest alone.